Sea Buckthorn
INCI · Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil · also Sea Buckthorn Oil, Hippophae Oil
How it works
Sea buckthorn oil is extracted from the berries and seeds of Hippophae rhamnoides, a hardy shrub whose fruit is notably rich in carotenoids, tocopherols, phytosterols, and a distinctive fatty acid profile that includes omega-7 palmitoleic acid alongside omega-3, 6, and 9 fatty acids. This combination supports antioxidant defense against environmental stressors like UV exposure and pollution, while contributing lipids that help reinforce the skin's barrier, improve suppleness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
The evidence
Sea buckthorn has a long history in traditional medicine across Asia and Europe, and modern research has examined its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties, largely in the context of its carotenoid and vitamin content, with some studies on oral and topical use supporting improved skin hydration and elasticity markers. Cosmetic-specific clinical trials are less extensive than for more mainstream barrier oils, but its dense nutrient profile provides strong mechanistic support for its use in barrier-supportive and anti-aging formulations.
Suitability
- Well suited to dry, dull, and environmentally stressed skin in need of nutrient-dense barrier support.
- Generally suitable for sensitive skin due to its anti-inflammatory fatty acid content, though patch testing is recommended given its potency and concentrated actives.
- The deep orange-red color of the unrefined oil can temporarily tint the skin, so refined or heavily diluted versions are often preferred in leave-on cosmetic formulas.
Concentration
- Often used as a minor component (1–10%) in facial oil blends rather than applied alone at full strength.
- Higher concentrations increase both potential benefits and the risk of temporary staining from its natural pigment.
Conflicts & combinations
- No significant known conflicts with common actives.
- Pairs well with other barrier-supportive ingredients like squalane and ceramides, and with additional antioxidants like vitamin E (tocopherol).
- Best layered toward the end of a routine, in the facial oil or moisturizer step, to help seal in previously applied water-based layers.
- dryness
- dullness
- redness
- anti aging
- Effective from
- 3%
- Max safe
- 10%
What does sea buckthorn oil do for skin?
It provides antioxidant protection and supports the skin barrier through its rich carotenoid, vitamin, and fatty acid content, helping with dryness and dullness.
Does sea buckthorn oil stain the skin?
The unrefined oil has a deep orange-red pigment that can leave a temporary tint, so diluted or refined versions are often used in facial products.
Is sea buckthorn oil good for sensitive skin?
Its anti-inflammatory fatty acid profile is generally considered gentle, but patch testing is recommended due to its concentrated nutrient content.
Can sea buckthorn oil be used with other actives?
Yes, it has no major known conflicts and pairs well with other barrier and antioxidant ingredients like squalane, ceramides, and vitamin E.
Is sea buckthorn oil safe during pregnancy?
Safety data specific to pregnancy is limited, so it is classified as unknown and best discussed with a healthcare provider before regular use.