antioxidant

Alpha Lipoic Acid

INCI · Thioctic Acid · also ALA, Thioctic Acid, Lipoic Acid

EWG safety

How it works

Alpha lipoic acid (ALA) is a naturally occurring, sulfur-containing compound synthesized in small amounts by the body and involved in mitochondrial energy metabolism, where it functions as a cofactor for key enzyme complexes. It is notable among antioxidants for being both water- and fat-soluble, allowing it to function across different cellular compartments and membranes. In addition to directly neutralizing free radicals, ALA is known to help regenerate other antioxidants, including vitamin C, vitamin E, and glutathione, extending their functional lifespan within tissue and amplifying overall antioxidant capacity.

The evidence

Clinical research on topical alpha lipoic acid includes studies showing improvements in fine lines and skin roughness after several weeks of application, attributed to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. Its antioxidant-regenerating properties are well established in broader biochemical literature, though topical cosmetic studies remain smaller in scale than the evidence base for antioxidants like vitamin C, and reported benefits should be weighed against this more limited dermatology-specific dataset.

Suitability

  • Suited to combination and oily skin types seeking an antioxidant with a lighter feel.
  • Can cause stinging, redness, or a warm sensation in some users, particularly at higher concentrations.
  • Limited data on topical use during pregnancy means it is generally used with caution in that period.

Concentration

Topical formulations commonly use alpha lipoic acid at 1–5%, with lower concentrations favored for sensitive skin due to its potential for irritation at higher strengths.

Conflicts & combinations

Alpha lipoic acid can interact with copper peptides (GHK-Cu), as metal ions may accelerate its oxidation, so these are best used separately. It can also be less compatible with benzoyl peroxide in the same routine, as the latter is a strong oxidizer. ALA combines well with vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid, where it can help stabilize and regenerate these antioxidants within a formula.

Suitability
Suits skin type
dry oily combo sensitive acne prone mature normal
Targets
  • anti aging
  • dullness
  • uneven texture
Use caution with
  • redness
Concentration
Concentration0 – 5%
Effective from
1%
Max safe
5%
Frequently asked
What does alpha lipoic acid do for skin?

It acts as a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals and helps regenerate other antioxidants like vitamin C and E in the skin.

Can alpha lipoic acid cause irritation?

Yes, some users experience stinging, redness, or warmth, particularly at higher concentrations.

Is alpha lipoic acid safe during pregnancy?

Topical safety data during pregnancy is limited, so it is generally used with caution in that period.

Can alpha lipoic acid be used with vitamin C?

Yes, it pairs well with vitamin C and can help extend the antioxidant's effectiveness in a formula.

Is alpha lipoic acid the same as regular lipoic acid supplements?

Topical alpha lipoic acid uses the same compound as oral supplements, but is formulated for skin application rather than ingestion.